Snorkeling is a fancy word for breathing underwater while floating. It is the heavenly
experience of weightlessness, when the human body relinquishes all fear, all negativity,
and your eyes take your mind through an inverted bubble as you wade through tunnels of
friendly fish, lurking lobsters, flowering sea fans, colorful corals, sea sponges, silent
and slothful sea cucumbers, sleeping sea rays, and gigantic green and huge hawksbill sea
turtles. Imagine you just received a personal invitation from an animated sea creature to
go on a tour through a giant fish tank the size of a football field. That is what a
snorkeling experience is to those who never experienced the natural high that snorkeling
provides.
Years ago as I lay on the aft deck of a sail boat anchored off Bird Island--situated
approximately half mile due east of Jumby Bay Island and hotel Antigua-- I watched a blue
wrasse circle the boat a few times. I held a piece of bread in my hand and dared the fish
to take it. The first day, its patience got the better of me and my big heart. The second
day it came closer. By the third day, it felt confident enough to take the bread out of my
hand. By day five, it is either my imagination got the better of me, or I was flipping out
because my little fishy friend actually beckoned me to follow it. So I took a snorkel and
mask from the boat and after a few practice sessions, I was on my way following my little
friend.
My first reaction was "Wow!" Purple sea sponges, yellow, white and brown corals,
giant squid, and sea horses that swam upside down---I saw them all as my little friend
introduced me to its world--a sort of thank you for sharing my lunch daily. Naturally I
got hooked.
Learn to Snorkel: 10 Simple Keys:
After teaching so many people to snorkel, many who first told me "I cannot
swim," I have decided to pass the information on to millions more. A whole new world
of relaxation in liquid colour awaits you.
Never say you cannot swim or you cannot snorkel. Assuming that physically you are able to,
the only reason you cannot swim is that perhaps you were never taught; the only reason you
cannot snorkel is that perhaps you never tried. So begin to watch the Discovery Channel
and observe the beauty and ease through which the human body will glide through water when
it is at its most relaxed state.
Key number 1... Go to a Dive shop, sporting goods store or Google Amazon or Target stores.
Click on snorkel equipment within their outdoors departments. Look at the different types
of equipment you will need. For just about $100.00, you can learn one of the safest,
healthiest and most rewarding sports available. You will need a mask, a pair of fins, and
the vest is optional. If the vest is buoyant and you are nervous about swimming, then buy
the vest.
Key number 2... Snorkeling is a fancy word for being able to breathe comfortably under
water. So a proper fitting mask is necessary for ensuring that water doesn't seep through.
A tube fits under the strap of the mask and protrudes above the water's surface to enable
you to breathe in air through your mouth, because the mask is built in such a way that
your nose fits inside the mask. You first objective is to make sure that the open tip of
the snorkel does not go under water while you are taking in air. So before you put on a
mask, in the comfort of your home hold your nose and, learn to breathe through your mouth
while holding your nose. Try listening to music or even reading a book while you are doing
it. That simulates the type of pleasant distraction you will have while snorkeling.
Key number 3... When shopping for, or renting a mask, make sure your mask fits. Most
Caribbean hotels--especially those known for beaches with reefs--have their own snorkel
equipment available for guests. Before you book your next Caribbean vacation, ask your
travel agent: "Does the hotel have crystal clear water, and snorkeling off the
beach?"
Not all Caribbean hotels have good snorkeling from their adjacent beach. Some arrange boat
trips to reefs; others do not have the type of clear visibility necessary for snorkeling.
Do your own research; read the guests comments on their web sites. As a person who has
snorkeled in the Caribbean, Pacific Isles, and the Mediterranean, my favourite places are:
Barbuda, Bequia, and Antigua with its almost 400 beaches, including dozens of uninhabited
and ecologically undisturbed offshore islands. Most people will tell you that Antigua has
some of the world's best beaches and that is hard to dispute; however, what few people
know is that even though Antigua boasts more Top Ten-rated beaches than most destinations,
its sister island Barbuda has--in my opinion and the opinion of many professional dive
persons--at least two of the world's finest: both are uninhabited beaches over 10 miles in
length each. One beach stretches for 17 miles, has pink sand and the other stretches for
over 12 miles, is reef-fringed, loaded with lobsters, shipwrecks half mile off, and has
all sorts of beautiful fish and marine life. The latter I would recommend for experienced
swimmers because even if you had one week to explore the last beach mentioned, there would
not be sufficient time to explore all the reefs and their beauty.
How do you test your mask? Put on your mask by pulling the mask over your face and
securing the straps behind your head comfortably and snugly. Make sure that you do not
have hairs under the rubber of the mask. If hairs can get under, then water will get
under. You want your mask secure enough so that no water gets under. If water gets under
it will get into your mask. As you practice, you will discover that the easiest way to get
water out of your mask is to press the mask against your face, push in the top and as you
blow hard against the mask, the water will seep out. In the beginning, since you will be
snorkeling where you can stand, simply stop, stand up, lean your head back and drain out
the water. To get water out of your tube, either remove your mouth and drain the tube or
if face is below the waterline, simply wrap your lips over the snorkel rubber tightly and
blow out all the water. Initially you will want to stand to drain out the water. However,
as you grow in confidence, just use your mouth to blow out the water. If you have ever
played a flute or a blowing instrument, the same principles apply-behave as if you are
spitting out a grape seed and make sure you blow out all water.
Key number 4... Practical practice test... This simple technique I call the practical
practice test. Put on your mask, making sure that no hairs are under the side of your
mask; put the tube in your mouth. For this test, you need your bath tub, your swimming
pool, your hotel beach, or a lake. Stand in about 4 feet of water, and after making sure
that your mask and snorkel (tube) are properly fitted; press the rubber at the front sides
of your mask: that seals the mask to your face. Next, put your entire face below the
waterline to make sure that no water leaks in. If water leaks in, check to make sure your
straps are tight enough and that no hairs from beards, moustaches or hairlines allow water
to seep under the rubber of the mask; then go over the steps again. Do not breathe out
into the mask as that will fog it up. If you are a beginner, ask the snorkel shops for
anti-fogging sprays.
Key number 5... As soon as you have waterproofed your mask, slip the snorkel (tube) under
your head strap, brace it against your face, blow hard to make sure that no water got into
the tube and then begin to breathe through the tube while your head is under water. As
soon as you have a waterproof mask and tube, and you can breathe through the tube without
water entering, you are 90% on the way to snorkeling. The rest is academic and natural
physics.
Key number 6... Make sure your fins fit comfortably, not too tightly to cause discomfort
or cramps--tight enough so that they do not fall of when you paddle. You must know your
shoe size. Your shoe size is your fin size. Put on your fins, making sure they are secure
and comfortable. Try walking backwards. If you can wade in the water comfortably, you are
now 99% ready. Before putting on your mask, try swimming around with your fins using what
we call snake crawls or mermaid movements. Do not bend your knees as if doing hop, skip
and jump, or exercise bike movements. The more relaxed and fluid your movements are, the
less likely you are to get cramps.
Key number 7... Lock down your mind and get into automatic mode. The reason: the body is
naturally buoyant when in a relaxed state. Imagine you are about to stretch out on a giant
water bed. As your mask is strapped to the back of your head and fit snugly, make sure the
hose or snorkel is above the water line. Gently push forward with arms extended like a
cross, and imagine you are jumping in your bed. With the same motion, you will feel like
you are in a giant water bed with one exception: you can see and breathe under water. Just
use your arms to steer. When you push both arms backwards slowly, you will go forward.
When you push them forward slowly, you will go backward. If you want to turn right, just
push with your left hand; if you want to go left, push with your right hand--in other
words, where you want to go, use the other hand to push you there.
Key number 8... Make sure when you try your first snorkeling on a beach that at least one
helper is around. It is so easy to get addicted and forget to come up to see where you are
or where you are going. If it is very windy or very choppy forget it unless you are
seasoned. The visibility will not be good and chances are that you will swallow a lot of
water.
Key number 9... Try to be as natural and fluid with your movements as possible. Remember
fins and snorkels are designed to let you look and swim like one of the natives. Try to
blend in and do not behave like an obnoxious party crasher.
Key number 10... NEVER GO SNORKELING IN THE OCEAN ALONE, AND STAY OUT OF BOAT WATERWAYS!
With these simple keys, worlds of wonder, relaxation and beauty await you.
Suggested readings: "The Golden Fleece Found by Basil Hill --
If the snorkeling mask leaks it is a piece of junk. Many snorkelers just go out a buy a
cheap mask, the problem here is cheap mask are made from cheap materials and the mask will
leak within the near future. PVC or plastic mask skirts get hard and crack when exposed to
Chlorine and sunlight. A good silicone skirt will make a better seal and last longer. The
elastic nature of silicone will give you years of good service. Silicone skirts come in
two colors; black and clear. Clear silicone will let in more light. Black silicone will
block the light, a favorite among underwater photographers.
Now its time to try the mask on your face. Lace the mask on your face without the strap.
Look into a mirror and make sure the seal is against your skin and not against some facial
hair, like eye brows or a mustache.
Now lightly inhale through your nose a hold your breath. The mask should seal around
your face with no air leaks. Make sure your nose is comfortable in the nose pocket.
Now place the mask strap around your head. If you have long hair, you might want to
think about adding a neoprene mask strap. Your hair will appreciate it.
Now for the last step before you buy the mask, put your snorkel in your mouth, while
wearing the mask. Believe it or not, but occasionally when the snorkel is in your mouth,
the mask will break its seal around your upper lip.
To learn more about snorkeling equipment, visit http://www.scuba-info.com
Greg Deskin has been a PADI Course Director for over 12 years. With thousands of
certified students, he has been asked many questions about scuba and scuba equipment. You
can visit his scuba lesson website at http://www.classicscuba.com
Choosing the proper scuba fins can save energy, air and unnecessary hassle. The right pair
can feel like natural appendages, powerfully propelling you forward with each little
thrust.
The most important consideration is fit. Then you'll want to contemplate design. Don't get
caught up on brand names or price. Make the investment that will work for you.
Cold water divers will want adjustable strap scuba fins, so they can wear warming booties
underneath. Coral divers and deep sea excavators need the adjustable strap model for its
great propulsion and foot protection.
However, some people complain that the straps can break easily and the less-expensive
full-footed fins are designed for warm water surface swimmers.
Thanks to recent innovation, some paddle fins come with self-adjusting blades. At the
highest end, the $169 Mares Volo scuba fins have received awards for its patented
Optimized Pivoting Blade technology.
The Mares Volo design puts the blade at the best position on both upward and downward
strokes, allowing for optimal propulsion. Experienced divers also recommend Apollo brand
scuba fins for $150, which are the only fins to score perfect in the Rodale Magazine
evaluation.
Comparable lower-end options include the Dacor or Tusa brand, full-foot, OPB models for
just $23 or the more advanced adjustable strap OPB models for $79.
The split fin design is practical for adventurers who are prone to leg cramps and who are
willing to spend a little extra for the added comfort provided by their scuba fins.
Because of its unusual shape and the empty space down the center of the blade, water is
propelled behind the diver, adding increased efficiency. The Apollo Bio-Fin Pro or
Sherwood split fins rank high for maneuverability and speed.
However, photographers and cave divers won't care for them, as they aren't recommended for
hovering, fighting currents, back-pedaling or frog-kicking.
A second option, well-suited for tourist swimmers, are the comfortable and marine-life
safe polyurethane force fins. Force fins are very comfortable for surface divers but
aren't recommended for wreck diving or dry suit diving.
The Original Force Fin designed by Bob Evans goes for $120 and received high praise from
the US Navy for its functionality and toes-free foot pocket that reduces cramping.
A third design offers Power Enhancing Vents that are said to reduce the stress on the
diver's legs and slightly accelerate the kick by allowing water to pass through slits and
over the fin blades. Aeris Velocity has them for $80.
A more obvious consideration for scuba fins is length. Current divers, competitive
underwater hockey players and fitness swimmers often like the longer blades like Aqualung,
which has won "the best paddle fin" award.
Cave divers love the massive, powerful Scuba Pro Jets for their comfort and short length
that's good for navigating cramped spaces.
To summarize, cave and wreck divers will want scuba fins that are short, with adjustable
heel straps. Tourist swimmers should look into force fins or fins with power enhancing
vents.
Divers in heavy currents will want sturdy, longer blades. If there's one place to spend,
it's on comfortable scuba fins. Choosing the right pair could save you 40% in air supply
refills and your body will thank you later.
Enrich your knowledge further about
[http://scubadiving.mininicherecommends.com/ar/scuba-fins.php]scuba fins from Mike Selvon
portal. We appreciate your feedback at our
[http://www.mynicheportal.com/recreation-leisure/your-choice-in-scuba-fins-varies]scuba
diving blog where a free gift awaits you.
Underwater is no place for Gear Failure...Especially Brassiere Failure.So,
what's the big deal about the "right bra" for diving? Well, since women are
a breath ahead on air consumption versus our male counterparts, our ability
to stay under longer is legendary. No GirlDiver wants to end her anticipated
90 minute dive at the 50 minute mark (when the boys start their ascents) due
to a misaligned underwire piercing her side.
So, what to look for in a dive bra? "Sports Bras" are rated for the level
of aerobic impact they can withstand, or how tightly they compress to snug
around you. But in diving, we're not looking at high-impact activities, and
our dive suits are capable of more compression at depth than any sports bra
could hope for. We need support that attends to the "bounce" while being
comfortable and avoiding unsightly adjustments.
Unfortunately, the everyday bra, especially an all-elastic one, won't
stop the bouncing. The answer is the dreaded sports bra. This garment once
was as welcome as an albatross around the neck--and about as attractive.
Because it was tailored only for small-breasted women, it flattened the
breasts and provided all the comfort of a boa constrictor.
But sports bras have come a long way. Recently, high-tech engineering has
fashioned bras that are not only comfortable and functional, but stylish and
fashionable as well. In fact, many sports bras can be worn as outerwear and
come in a variety of colors and styles.
This article is going to presuppose that I am talking to drysuit divers,
as in the "wetsuit" world, we would want to talk about the right swimsuit
for the job. (Another article)
Types of Sports Bras
~Shimmels are tank tops with an integral shelf bra that provides support
for low- or medium-impact activities.
~Compression sports bras come in two basic options. Scoop-back styles
work well for small- and medium-breasted women during low- or medium-impact
activities. Racer-back styles are more supportive and are for medium- and
high-impact activities. Thin spaghetti straps provide less support than
wider straps.
~Encapsulation style sports bras separate and support to avoid the "uni-boob"
look. They provide larger-breasted women excellent support for medium- and
high-impact activities.
Sports bras should fit tighter than regular bras, but they shouldn't be
too tight as to interfere with breathing. This is especially important in
diving, as our primary skill as a diver is to "breathe" underwater. When
trying on a sports bra, check the following things:
~There should be no chafing around the armholes, shoulder straps or
seams. If the sports bra has hooks or snaps, make sure those don't chafe,
either. Cups should be seamless or at least have covered seams. Hardware
like hooks or fasteners must be covered with fabric and should be cushioned
for maximum protection.
~The straps shouldn't dig into your shoulders, nor slip down your
shoulders. Choose wide, non-stretch straps for best results. In addition, a
wide "Y-back" panel can increase support and prevent slipping. Remember,
there is no way to reposition those straps once you've zipped your suit.
~To make sure you have the right size, raise your hands over your head.
If the elastic band moves up your rib cage, you need a smaller size. Be
certain the armholes allow ample room for the unrestricted arm movements
necessary during the donning of your drysuit.
~Test the bra's support by jumping or running in place. You'll be able to
feel whether it's sufficiently supportive or not. This would account for the
movement when we're jostling the BCD into place.
Because we tend to "glisten" when we carry our 85 lb. scuba kit down to
the shore, it becomes necessary to prevent moisture from accumulating next
to the skin. The bra should be a synthetic blend including a "breathable"
material such as Lycra mesh to help evaporate sweat and keep odor in check.
The more supportive a sports bra is, the less effective it will be at
wicking moisture because of sturdier fabric and construction. While cotton
provides more comfort than synthetic materials, it becomes cold when wet, so
it is never recommended for any undergarments while drysuit diving. (See
article) The bra also should be lined under the breasts and under the arms
with material like CoolMax that removes moisture from the skin by "wicking"
the sweat to your outer layers.
Determine your size. Studies show that more than 68% of women do not know
their proper bra size. The following steps will help with the fit:
First: Measure around your rib cage, just under your breasts. Add 5 and
round to the nearest even number. This is your band size.
Next: Measure loosely around your bust at the fullest part. Be sure your
tape stays straight across your back. Round to the nearest whole number.
Finally: Subtract your band size from your bust measurement. Use the
resulting number to determine your cup size as follows:
~1" difference = A cup
~2" difference = B cup
~3" difference = C cup
~4" difference = D cup
~5" difference = DD cup
Cindy Ross is the
owner/instructor of GirlDiver.com. Dedicated to a gentler form of scuba for
everyone. She teaches PADI co-ed, women's only and teen scuba classes in the
Pacific Northwest. She teaches in very small groups in Seattle to assure her
scuba classes receive her full attention. Cindy is also a writer for XRay
Magazine and Dive Coordinator for Highline Community College. For more
articles on learning to scuba dive, visit
http://www.girldiver.com.
Dive watches have been around for decades as a tool to
assist scuba divers in staying safe and executing proper ascent times when
decompressing. They are no longer limited to professional divers and have
evolved to the status of a piece of handsome jewelry worn by many that will
never set foot in the ocean. If you are looking for an attractive and
quality timepiece, a dive watch can be a good selection. For those who are
needing a reliable watch for scuba diving, there are a few things to watch
for prior to making a purchase. Whether you are an avid scuba diver that
routinely explores the wonders of our oceans and seas around the world or
simply like to snorkel in shallow waters for a few hours while on vacation,
it is important to understand what the phrases "water resistant" and
"diver's" watch really mean. You might be surprised by what you learn.
There are literally hundreds of watches on the market
to choose from that claim to be water resistant. While many of them can
satisfy the needs of the occasional vacationer that plan to swim in shallow
water for a short time, most will not meet the needs of a scuba diver. A
reliable watch that meets the rigors of long-term exposure to water
(including a salt-water environment), pressures associated with deep water,
and cold temperatures must have features capable of meeting international
standard ISO 6425 - Diver's Watches in order to be considered a "diver's"
watch. Before shopping for a dive watch, it is important to understand the
meaning of a few terms. For instance, what is "ISO 6425"?
ISO 6425 is a set of tests established by the
International Organization for Standardization for the purpose of testing
watches that are to be sold as a "diver's" watch. The tests include
subjecting a watch to high pressures, drastic and sudden temperature
changes, tests to evaluate the buildup of condensation within the watches'
interior, resistance to rust, resistance to effects of magnetic fields, and
the expected battery life. Once a watch has passed the rigors of testing
under ISO 6425, it can be sold with confidence as a true "diver's" watch. In
order to carry the certification of ISO 6425, each individual watch must be
tested as opposed to random samples of a type of watch. Most manufacturers
will stencil the word "Diver" on each watch that passes the ISO 6425 tests.
Other terms to understand prior to purchasing a dive
watch include; Atmosphere - a measure of pressure based upon the air
pressure at sea level. One atmosphere of pressure is approximately 14.7
pounds per square inch (psi); and Bar - a measure of pressure based upon the
water pressure experienced at a depth of 10 meters. One bar is approximately
14.5 psi. Twenty bars is equivalent to the pressure experienced at a depth
of 200 meters of water, which is the minimum pressure a watch intended for
scuba diving should be able to withstand.
For those that are not in the market for a certified
watch that has been subjected to the testing of ISO, there are reliable and
quality watches that can be used for scuba diving with confidence. When
shopping for a reliable dive watch, there are important aspects to look for
including:
1. A depth rating of at least 20 atmospheres or 200
meters (660 feet) is required for the watch to be expected to operate as a
reliable dive watch.
2. A rotating bezel on an analog watch that is limited
to rotation in the counter-clockwise direction. The bezel is used to set the
time when a diver first enters the water and to allow a diver, with a
glance, to learn how long they have been submerged. The purpose of limiting
the rotation to the counter-clockwise direction is to avoid accidentally
misaligning the bezel with the start time should the bezel get bumped during
the dive. If the bezel can rotate in a clockwise direction, the time of
submergence could be inadvertently lengthened thereby risking the diver's
life and health. By limiting any accidental rotation to the
counter-clockwise direction, the dive would be shortened if the bezel were
rotated during the dive.
3. Luminescent hands or digital displays that are
visible from ten inches in the dark. Some dive watch manufacturers use
tritium, a hydrogen isotope, on the hands and face of the timepiece, which
provides for luminescence that can be observed in complete darkness. In
other words, the hands and numbers on the face naturally glow. Other watches
use luminescent paint on the hands and face. The paints need to be "charged"
by first being exposed to a light source prior to submergence, whereas,
tritium glows all the time. Tritium, however, contains a half-life and will
fade over time requiring the watch to be replaced in a few years.
3. A screw down crown on an analog watch is essential
to protect the watch from water intrusion during submergence. The crown
necessarily penetrates the side of the watch case in order to allow the time
to be set. The opening in the case where the stem extends into the watch is
sealed by the use of a gasket. This gasket experience stress each time the
crown stem turns or pushes on the seal. A screw down crown is threaded onto
the case and provides added protection from another gasket that is
compressed when the crown is screwed down into place. Unless otherwise
stated by the manufacturer, the crown should never be unscrewed or used to
adjust the hands during a dive.
4. The strap should be extendable to fit on one's wrist
when out of the water and over a wetsuit during a dive. It should also fit
securely to the watch case to avoid losing the watch during a dive.
5. Other features that you will want in a dive watch
include anti-corrosive materials for the construction of the watch,
non-scratch crystals, and oversized buttons (on a digital watch) that can be
operated with gloved hands.
I certainly hope that after reading this article you
are a little more informed with respect to dive watches and what should be
looked for if you are considering purchasing a quality watch. A dive watch
can make for a handsome timepiece for most occasions that is reliable and
built with quality in mind. For those that want to have the option of
wearing the watch in the water, looking for the features discussed above can
give you the confidence you need to know your watch will perform as
expected.
About The Author:
Julie is the founder and owner of [http://www.DiveWatchWorld.com]http://www.DiveWatchWorld.com,
a website dedicated to providing quality name brand dive watches for divers
with all experience levels. Specializing in quality name brand dive watches,
she is dedicated to meeting budgetary needs of recreational and professional
divers alike. To see her extensive selection of dive watches visit: http://www.DiveWatchWorld.com/products
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?What-to-Look-For-When-Purchasing-a-Quality,-Reliable-Dive-Watch&id=6832805]
What to Look For When Purchasing a Quality, Reliable Dive Watch
I
have been a scuba diver for almost 20 years and a scuba instructor for more
than 5 years. Still, it shocks me to hear some of the myths on why people
don't want to dive. Some of the most common myths include: scuba diving is
too hard; there is nowhere around here to go diving; scuba equipment costs
too much; or my favorite is that scuba diving is too extreme or dangerous.
Let's start with the last one, scuba diving is too extreme for the common
person or that it is dangerous. First, we have to understand that being
human has inherent risks that we can't control (As a current commercial
says, "It could be other humans"). Yes, scuba diving does have some inherent
risks to it. If you are properly trained and follow safety protocols that
almost every certifying agency (i.e. PADI, NAUI, SSI) prescribes to, your
chances of injury is dramatically reduced. We still believe that your
instructor is the main influencer to your future safety. IF they are poor,
most likely your experience is going to be poor too (please note, if you had
a poor experience with an instructor, don't give up diving, find a different
professional to dive with).
As
for being an extreme sport, I haven't seen scuba diving sponsored by
Mountain Dew or advertised on the X Games, so it can't be that extreme!
Humor aside, the reason diving received the rap about being an extreme sport
was because original scuba equipment did not promote the feeling of being
comfortable and confident in the water. I know this because I started out
diving with much of this equipment. Looking back on it, if I was to choose
diving over another activity, I would have stayed with the other activities.
Those days being long in the rearview mirror, scuba equipment has lent
itself to you being safer in the water, more comfortable in the water and
thus more confident in the water. Properly configured equipment will do
wonders on your abilities. That scuba equipment takes the extreme nature out
of scuba diving.
So
is the cost or your scuba equipment too much? Remember what I just said,
proper equipment does wonders on your abilities to dive with confidence and
comfort. With that being said, if you're looking to completely outfit
yourself, a complete scuba equipment kit; it could cost anywhere from $500
to holy garbanzo beans! Scuba equipment should be looked at as lifesaving
equipment, so cheap is not always the answer here. What you plan on doing
with your diving adventures is what you should be basing your buying
decisions on. Your locations of diving are going to influence more of what
you should buy then just cost. This is where you need to trust a
professional to help guide you along in your buying process. They should
have the knowledge and be willing to listen to you about what you are
looking to do with your diving, then help you make the correct decisions on
equipment.
Remember, you don't have to purchase everything at once. You can purchase
items here and there as money becomes available. Otherwise, you are going to
be renting the required equipment until you get to the point of purchasing.
No matter where you live, you are probably going to find a dive shop to help
you make those decisions.
So
if there are scuba dive shops almost anywhere, does that mean you can go
diving almost anywhere? Why yes you can. I will let you in on a little known
fact: the founders of PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors)
were originally from the Chicago area. If they could figure out a way to go
diving there, you can probably go scuba diving where you are too. You don't
have to live within an hour of the Florida Keys, or the Gulf of Mexico. Or,
you don't have to live within an hour of the Catalina Islands in California.
While those places do lend themselves to the diving lifestyle, you can dive
in the Great Lakes or even those lakes near your house. There are quarries
scattered all across the country that dive shops use to certify people.
Along with that, there are multiple lakes that lend themselves to scuba
diving too. I live in the Midwest, outside of Chicago, in Northwest Indiana.
Weather permitting, I can be diving on shipwrecks within about an hour or
two of my house.
So
if you want to find out where the locals dive, go to the dive shop and find
out where they dive. More chances than not, it is within the local area. If
they really want you to dive, then they are going to offer trips to go to
other places to scuba dive. Doesn't that sound easy enough?
So
we have not talked yet about scuba diving being too hard. Reference the
conversation earlier about equipment and perception. Diving has gotten
easier. With any certifying agency, we are asking what your current state of
health is. If there is a question, then we have a doctor give the thumbs up
on your ability to dive. If they clear you, then we are good to have fun and
start exploring. There is a physical aspect to diving, No doubt about that.
I try to reduce that stress as much as possible. On the flip side, there is
also a mental aspect to scuba diving. More people get hung up on the mental
side more than the physical side.
Face
it, when you step into the water, put the regulator in your mouth and slide
below the waves, you take a step backwards in the evolutionary chain. Once
you relax and realize that you have a full tank of air, everything becomes
easier. We are going to have you do skills in the water to overcome common
issues. While you might not like the skills, if you follow what the
instructor is teaching then that too becomes easier and more relaxing.
So
the scuba equipment manufacturers have created equipment that makes us feel
more comfortable and confident in the water. Proper instruction helps you to
understand common issues that can happen underwater and gives you techniques
to correct those issues. Your instructor is there to also remove many of the
physical strains that will happen during scuba diving. So how can this be
too hard? Again, scuba diving suffers from a perception of what it used to
be like, and not what it is today.
From
someone that has been scuba diving for years, we start to see that scuba
diving, with the right instructors is not too hard. They will show us many
places to go scuba diving and really it doesn't cost all that much for our
safety and comfort. Since we don't see Mountain Dew advertising scuba
diving, it really can't be all that extreme. Scuba diving should be looked
at as a relaxing and enjoyable sport that almost everyone can enjoy.
Scuba Shea is a recognized PADI instructor in Merrillville, IN. Outside of
the Chicago area. We believe in quality instruction along with superb
training to help the scuba diver become more confident and comfortable in
the water.
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